SOVIET FASHION DESIGN AT MICRO LEVEL: BRICOLAGE, SCARCITY, CREATIVITY
Keywords:
fashion, bricolage, late USSR, fashion house, designersAbstract
The phenomenon of Soviet fashion is widely acknowledged, but it is still little known about Soviet designers’ professional routines and the way they solved their professional tasks in a planned economy. The existing studies explored Soviet fashion as part of the planned economy and everyday culture. The study aims at explaining how Soviet designers overcame the limits of the planned economy and made performative statements. Soviet fashion design is analyzed in terms of bricolage. Evidence comes from archival documents and 14 in-depth interviews with ex-employees of the Perm Clothing Design House and Experimental Workshop of Everyday Service Department. As a result, the author describes the features and peculiarities of individual bricolage in Soviet fashion design, resources enriching bricoleurs’ repertoire, and practices of dialogues of the bricoleurs with resources and technologies. Designers did not limit themselves to reproducing official principles of Soviet fashion, but using the bricolage opportunities, they endeavored to make the inner sense shift. Their performative statements did not transform the public fashion discourse, but they affected the professional discourse of a concrete organization or co-workers. In the context of Soviet subjectivity studies, our findings extend the vision of Soviet subject’s creativity under conditions of scarcity and government control.References
Андреева И. Мода сегодня и завтра // Художник, вещь, мода. М.: Сов. художник, 1989. С. 7–23
Бартлетт Дж. Fashion East: призрак, бродивший по Восточной Европе. М.: Нов. лит. обозрение, 2011. 360 с.
Журавлев С., Гронов Ю. Мода по плану: история моды и моделирования одежды в СССР,
–1991. М.: Б.и., 2013. 494 с.
Иванова А. Магазины «Березка»: парадоксы потребления в позднем СССР. М.: Нов. лит. обозрение, 2017. 304 с.
Лебина Н. Мужчина и женщина: тело, мода, культура. СССР – Оттепель. М.: Нов. лит. обозрение, 2015, 208 с.
Леви-Стросс К. Первобытное мышление. М.: Республика, 1994. 368 с.
Страусс А., Корбин Д. Основы качественного исследования: Обоснованная теория. Процедуры и техники. 3-е изд. М. : КомКнига, 2010. 254 с.
Юрчак А. Это было навсегда, пока не кончилось. Последнее советское поколение. М.: Нов. лит. обозрение, 2014. 644.
Папушина Ю. О. Производство моды во времена позднего социализма: Взгляд из провинциального Дома моделей // Теория моды. Одежда. Тело. Культура. 2019. № 54/4. С. 266–307.
Baker T., Nelson R. E. Creating Something from Nothing: Resource Construction through Entrepreneurial Bricolage // Administrative Science Quarterly. 2005. Vol. 50, No. 3. P. 329–366.
Barksdale H. C., Kelly W. J., MacFarlane I. The marketing concept in the U.S. and the USSR: an historical analysis // Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science. 1978. Vol. 6, №. 4. Р. 258–277.
Carstensen M. B. Paradigm Man vs. the Bricoleur: Bricolage as an Alternative Vision of Agency in Ideational Change // European Political Science Review. 2011. Vol. 3, №1. P. 147–167.
Chernyshova N. Soviet consumer culture in the Brezhnev era. London; New York: Routledge, 2013. 259 p.
Clark J. Style. Resistance through Rituals //Youth subcultures in Post-war Britain / ed. S. Hall and T. Jefferson. London; New York: Routledge, 1976. P. 175–191.
Cook L. J., Dimitrov M. K. The Social Contract Revisited: Evidence from Communist and State Capitalist Economies // Europe-Asia Studies. 2017. Vol. 69, №. 1. Р. 8–26.
Duymedjian R., Rüling C.-C. Towards a Foundation of Bricolage in Organization and Management Theory // Organization Studies. 2010. Vol. 31, № 2. P. 133–151.
Golubev A., Smolyak O. Making Selves through Making Things: Soviet do-it-yourself culture and practices of late Soviet Subjectivation // Cahiers du Monde russe. 2013. Vol. 54, No. 3–4. P. 517–541
Hedbige D. Subculture: the meaning of style. London; New York: Routledge, 1979. 195р.
Klerk S. de. The creative industries: an entrepreneurial bricolage perspective // Management Decision. 2015. Vol. 53, №. 4. Р. 828–842.
Kreis R. A Hands-on Approach: The Do-It-Yourself Culture and Economy in the Twentieth Century // Bulletin of the German Historic Institute. Fall 2014 / Ed. R. E. Wetzell. Washington: German Historic Institute, 2014. P. 153–156.
Oiva M. Something new in the Easter market: Polish perceptions of the developing Soviet consumerism, 1961–1972 // Hausbacher E., Huber E., Hargaßner J. (Ed.). Fashion, Consumption and Everyday Culture in the Soviet Union between 1945 and 1985. München; Berlin; Washington: Verlag Otto Sagner, 2014. Р. 99–124.
Papushina I., Abramov R. The Celebration of Heritage in Soviet Fashion: the Case of the Perm Fashion House // Zone Moda Journal. 2018. Vol. 8(1). P. 167–182.
Stinchfield B. T., Wood M., Nelson R. E. Learning from Levi-Strauss' Legacy: Art, Craft, Engineering, Bricolage, and Brokerage in Entrepreneurship // Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice. 2013. Vol. 37. Iss. 4. P. 889–921.
Vasilyeva Z. Do-It-Yourself Practices and Technical Knowledge in late Soviet and Post-Soviet Russia // TSANTSA. Journal of the Swiss Anthropological Association. 2012. № 17. P. 28–31.
Visscher K., Heusinkveld S., O’Mahoney J. Bricolage and Identity Work // British Journal of Management. 2018. Vol. 29, №. 2. P. 356–372.
Winkel D., Vanevenhoven J., Bronson J. W. The invisible hand in entrepreneurial process: Bricolage in emerging economies // International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation Management. 2013. Vol. 17, № 4/5/6. P. 214–223.
Zakharova L. S’habiller a la Sovietique. La Mode et le Degel en URSS. Paris: CNRS EDITIONS, 2011. 408 p.
References
Andreeva, I. (1989), “Fashion today and tomottow”, in Hudozhnik, vesch, moda [Artist, thing, fashion], Sovetskiy hudozhnik, Moscow, Russia, pp. 7–23.
Baker T. & R. E. Nelson (2005), “Creating Something from Nothing: Resource Construction through Entrepre-neurial Bricolage”, Administrative Science Quarterly, Vol. 50, № 3, pp. 329–366.
Barksdale, H. C., Kelly, W. J. & I. MacFarlane (1978), “The Marketing Concept in the U.S. and the USSR: a Historical Analysis”, Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, Vol. 6, № 4, pp. 258–277.
Bartlett, D. (2011), FashionEast: prizrak, brodivshii po Vostochnoy Evrope [FashionEast. The Spectrum that Haunted Socialism], Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, Moscow, Russia, 360 p.
Carstensen, M. B. (2011) “Paradigm Man vs. the Bricoleur: Bricolage as an Alternative Vision of Agency in Ideational Change”, European Political Science Review, Vol. 3, № 1, pp. 147–167.
Chernyshova, N. (2013), Soviet consumer culture in the Brezhnev era, Routledge, Taylor&Francis Group, Lon-don, New York, UK – USA, 259 p.
Clark, J. (1976), “Style. Resistance through Rrituals”, in Hall, S. & T. Jefferson [eds.], Youth subcultures in Post-war Britain, Routledge, London – New York, UK – USA, pp. 175 – 191.
Cook, L. J. & M. K. Dimitrov (2017), “The Social Contract Revisited: Evidence from Communist and State Capitalist Economies”, Europe-Asia Studies, Vol. 69, № 1, pp. 8–26.
Duymedjian, R. & C.-C. Rüling (2010), “Towards a Foundation of Bricolage in Organization and Management Theory”, Organization Studies, Vol. 31, № 2, pp. 133–151.
Golubev, A. & O. Smolyak (2013), “Making Selves through Making Things: Soviet do-it-yourself culture and practices of late Soviet Subjectivation”, Cahiers du Monde russe, Vol. 54, № 3–4, pp. 517–541.
Hedbige, D. (1979), Subculture: the meaning of style, Routledge, London – New York, UK – USA, 195 p.
Ivanova, A. (2017), Magaziny “Berezka”: paradoxy potrebleniya v pozdnem SSSR [Berezka shops: paradoxes of consumption in late USSR], Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, Moscow, Russia, 2017, 304 p.
Klerk, S. de. (2015), “The Creative Industries: an Entrepreneurial Bricolage Perspective”, Management Decision, Vol. 53, № 4, pp. 828–842.
Kreis, R. (2014), “A Hands-on Approach: The Do-It-Yourself Culture and Economy in the Twentieth Century”, in Fall, R. & E. Wetzell (eds.), Bulletin of the German Historic Institute, German Historic Institute, Washington DC, USA, pp. 153–156.
Lebina, N. B. (2015), Muzhchina i zhenstchina: telo, moda, kul'tura. SSSR – Ottepel' [A Man and A Woman: Body, Fashion, Culture. The USSR – Thaw], Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, Moscow, Russia, 208 p.
Levi-Stross, K. (1994), Pervobytnoe myshlenie [The Savage Mind], Respublika, Moscow, Russia, 384 p.
Oiva, M. (2014), “Something New in the Easter Market: Polish Perceptions of the Developing Soviet Consumer-ism, 1961-1972”, in Hausbacher, E., Huber, E. & J. Hargaßner (eds.), Fashion, Consumption and Everyday Cul-ture in the Soviet Union between 1945 and 1985, Verlag Otto Sagner; München – Berlin – Washington/D.C., Germany – USA, pp. 99–124.
Papushina, I. & R. Abramov (2018), “The celebration of heritage in Soviet fashion: the case of the Perm fashion house”, ZoneModa Journal, Vol. 8, № 1, pp. 167–182.
Papushina, Iu. O. (2019), “The field of fashion production during late socialism: the case of Perm clothing de-sign house”, Fashion Theory. Clothes. Body. Culture = Teoria mody. Odezda. Telo. Cul’tura, № 54/4, pp. 266–307.
Stinchfield, B. T., Wood, M. & R. E. Nelson (2013), “Learning from Levi‐Strauss' Legacy: Art, Craft, Engineer-ing, Bricolage, and Brokerage in Entrepreneurship”, Entrepreneurship Theory and Practice, Vol. 37, № 4, pp. 889–921.
Strauss, A. & D. Korbin (2010), Osnovy kachestvennogo issledovaniya: Obosnovannaya teoriya. Protsedury i techniki [Basics of Qualitative Research. Grounded Theory Procedures and Techniques], KomKniga, Moscow, Russia, 254 p.
Vasilyeva, Z. (2012), “Do-It-Yourself Practices and Technical Knowledge in late Soviet and Post-Soviet Russia”, TSANTSA, Journal of the Swiss Anthropological Association, № 17, pp. 28–31.
Visscher, K., Heusinkveld, S. & J. O’Mahoney (2018), “Bricolage and Identity Work”, British Journal of Man-agement, Vol. 29, № 2, pp. 356–372.
Winkel, D., Vanevenhoven, J. & J. W. Bronson (2013), “The invisible hand in entrepreneurial process: Bricolage in emerging economies”, International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation Management, Vol. 17, № 4/5/6, pp. 214–223.
Yurchak, A. (2014), Eto bylo navsegda, poka ne konchilos’. Poslednee sovetskoe pokolenie [It was Forever Until It Was No More: The Last Soviet Genegration], Novoe Literaturnoe Obozrenie, Mosсow, Russia, 664 p.
Zakharova, L. (2013), “Soviet Fashion in the 1950s – 60s: Regimentation, Western Influences, and Consumption Strategies”, in Gilburd, E. D. K. (ed.), The Thaw: Soviet Society and Culture during the 1950s and 1960s, University of Toronto Press, Toronto, Buffalo, Londres, Canada, pp. 402–435.
Zakharova, L. (2011), S’habiller a la Sovietique. La Mode et le Degel en URSS, CNRS EDITIONS, Paris, France, 408 p.
Zhuravlev, S. V. & J. Gronow (2013), Moda po planu: istoriya mody i modelirovaniya odezhdy v SSSR, 1917 – 1991 [Fashion according to the Plan: History of Fashion and Design of Clothes in the USSR, 1917 – 1991], n.p., Moscow, Russia, 494 p.
